foxbrand

day one completed, pictures incoming tonight

incoming thread, will be updated soon

there is at present one big hold up, fuel rails, which is a story in itself, most of my work right now is cleaning up the body, removing rust, repairing the dented right quarter panel, I'm probably going to completely do the underside of the car with bed liner my shopping list still holds at: fuel injectors, 2009 WRX limited slip diff headers oil pan, I have a MIVEC 6g75 oil pan but I need the flange of a 6g74 welded on for compatibility drivers side intermediate shaft motor mounts and that's it, I'm aiming at being done by October, if I can get a screaming deal on an LSD, that will allow me to move forward way faster on a completely different note; I am visiting my Mom and her fiance in Washington (Fox Island), I do believe I RaptorReed's 1977 Galant Wagon. I saw what looks like it a bit after we got off the ferry going back from Settle (dock was in Port Orchard) in I think Harper where we were passing through on the way back to their house

well, overdue update, and I will update all picture links and everything soon, my target is to be done by October with Mari, fully built engine (cams, custom valves, valve springs, retainers, cams, ported heads with special sauce, intake, headers, fueling, all the good stuff), limited slip diff, custom headers and cams I have spent over a year designing, all the good stuff, if my existing short block can't be used, I will be going with a bored out 6g72 (I have custom pistons ready to go if needed) with a 6g74 crank and other awesomeness, either way, Mari will be a beast, I do not plan on overhauls for the next several years and in the 5 year range, I plan on getting another car for circuit racing/ street duty to supplement my daily. However, I do plan on reentering and pushing the limits past October, the insanity that is my life should level out by then

this seems to be accurate regarding rod ratio and duration, only thing I might add is that dwell at the top of the cylinder is also increased when the ratio is decreased as well. From everything I know about the factory cam specs (MiVEC included) is that the duration is actually pretty short for what you would expect, in addition, the high speed profile of the MiVEC 6g75 seems to be pretty flexible, I have seen (the dyno sheet) with cam advance adjustment that the stock MiVEC cams can push power healthily over 320whp and over 7000rpm

and the head gaskets

do the Ford beehives have higher than stock seat pressure? More I look at my models for max power cam profiles for my RPM range, more it looks like I will need something lighter than standard cylindrical and correct type retainers as well as stiffer at the seat springs (but much lower required than the 90 pound mark at the seat)

I have to ask, how did you set up to use evo beehives? they have a lot shorter installed height below the SOHC 24 valve spec

I really want to see what you have been up to, but youtube says the video does not exist

and if you are not friends with me on Facebook (look for the guy with the long ass blonde hair sitting in the window of a stock car if you want to friend me), I got my clutch in the mail recently Comp Clutch Stage 4, max torque that it is rated for is something in the neighborhood of 400 to 450 lb/ft, not that I will be pushing that much either but nice to have the head room, the other clutch I have is nowhere near as strong as this one, though the throwout bearing pre installed in that one is a nice touch another important tool I got recently, a new laptop, it is a newer Toshiba Satellite C55D-T with an A8-6410, I didn't even know it was a Satel until after I bought it (figured Toshiba made several models), anyway, I have done a couple upgrades, threw in an 8 gig stick (total of 12 gigs) of ram and a Samsung SSD, should make for tuning on the fly easier I'm working on my header design, I'm going to keep the header lengths proprietary for now, it is looking like either first 1.5 inch OD to 1.62 inch OD (I need to remeasure my exhaust port outlets) stepped, or 1.62 in OD to 1.75 inch OD stepped (these dimensions do work out with slip fitting and welding), goal is mid to top end power with my build, driviability should be fine if my low rev performance (below 3000 rpm) matches what I have at peak of other considerations, I might not even need to do much to my valve train to break 400whp, the valve springs I have are ridiculous but give good headroom for reground cams with greater lift with longer valves, which, could be a lot, if I do get my cams reground, it might just be for more lift, maybe asymmetric lobes (running calculations with flow effects) and tweaks to the duration, I am not going to need to go much over 7200 rpm, the porting will help with this idea tldr version; I am quite a bit closer to my build goal of my car will be so fast I will be kicked out off the track because my safety equipment isn't up to spec for the speed

which car has this combo been put into if I can ask?

funny, for a period of like a day and a half once every 3 months for like a year back in high school (5 years ago), my 8g did this, on every up shift, revs would go up then down (to the correct rpm for the gear upshifted to), I have not had this problem once since, I did have the trans flushed a couple months following the final incident too and the fluid has been at least partly changed out twice (following the multiple radiator replacement epic), but this could just be my own luck with that. As stated, replace the TPS, the IAC can also play a part here with between the gear engine behavior (from how I drive) with tendency to back fire or the exhaust popping

looks like I will also be building headers, the RPW units look tempting and would fit into the theme of off the shelf, but they do look too small for what I am doing, especially the secondary size (which is designed for up to 3.8 liters bone stock for max torque vs 3.9 liters high compression cammed at mid to high rpm with a controlled bottom end range) and the collector design is, ew, I can build a custom set of long tubes for half the price with full merge collectors out of stainless using flame welding. I might as well re build the rest of my exhaust while I am at it anyway, maybe go up to 2.75 inches and be all the way up at 3 before the muffler, hmm, I could also build the muffler too, and I do know of a very good supplier for some special materials too....

got a marine battery going so at least the old girl is up and running now even with her old engine, she did not make the migration to the Factory this year, I took her kid sister. On the build side, I did freshly purchase a stage 4 sprung unit from Comp Clutch and waiting for one very special part in the mail, on my to do list, get the tires changed out in the next week, pictures will follow