gt torque

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  1. F4A42 Transaxle swap

    Thanks for th tip Qnz.. The orientation is the same in both cases. Only to my knowledge I learnt a few things about that transaxle while going around looking for one. As a matte of fact I came across several models of the same transaxle but with differences in each; some of them may be accomodated others not. Newer models for example do not have an external oil filter - which is ok - but other models are built with different size of the cv axle in which I could not fit mine. Referring to the manual there are several gear ratios, number of plates etc, so not all are equal mainly depending on the engine to which they are mated. The transaxle I purchased is very similar to mine but I seem to still have a problem where the car - as soon as it starts - skips 2nd and shifts directly into 3rd and locks there. This is a sign of electronics malfunction which I am to date unable to figure out. This is why I start by checking the PCM model. Any tips there appreciated.
  2. F4A42 Transaxle swap

    Hi, have a 8th gen with the 2.5 lit 6 cyl SOHC 6A13 engine mated to a 4 speed F4A42 auto transmission. Lately the transmission failed, seems to engage when put in "D" or "R" but the car doesn't move either fwd pr bwd. Decided to replace the transaxle instead of fixing it. Does anybody know if the same F4a42 off a 4G63 would work in my car. Is the PCM similar in both models? If anybody ventured a similar project appreciate your feedback and experience.
  3. Hello I own an 8G Galant with a normally aspirated SOHC 2.5 lit 6V engine, code 6A13. My car is a general export model but the engine is similar to those sold in Europe and Japan but I believe rarely in the US. I have a 4 speed automatic transmission model F4a4-2 mated to the engine. Lately I found a similar engine but with DOHC Mivec model. Does anybody know the transmission model used with the Mivec engine and whether would it fit in my car (sensors matching and all)? Thanks
  4. Hello Isaurio In response to your question I am using the std plugs stated in the Galant manual. It is Denso plugs but I am sorry the manual is not within convenient reach now so I don't have the exact model number. The plugs however was not the problem (I changed them 3 times in the process !?)
  5. Hello again, just in case someone is experiencing similar problems I would like to conclude this thread telling what the culprit is. It was the distributor. I replaced it with a brand new one and immediately the engine ran as smooth as new. Regretfully it took me a long time to respond because I had to import the distributor as I was unable to find it locally. Nathan, thank you, you were absolutely right. Too bad Mitsubishi does not have a specific computer code for this problem!
  6. Am now down to a complete mess! This is becoming EXTREMELY frustrating. I may only suspect but am never sure. Already replaced the fuel pump, injectors, spark plugs and distributor rotor; cap looks perfect. EGR, vacuum control, vent control solenoid valves all work as should be. Spark wire resistance is ideal!!?? All physical readings of the distributor are just perfect, even the incorporated crank angle sensor. To make things worse I suspected a faulty knock sensor but to my surprise there is none on my specific engine! as it is a general export model. Yet spark os retarded instead of advancing on acceleration, then boom, the misfire. Now I am not using the car as I am afraid of breaking the engine. The only last hint I am focusing on is that the problem becomes more obvious as the car warms up. Damn Mitsubishi dealership, even they can't figure out what is wrong!!
  7. Hello again sorry for taking such a long time to update the situation but was out of town for some time. I scanned my egine again, only taking my time looking into every figure I get. I found out that the main reason for the "choking" effect was the spark timing advance. Surprisingly, if I press the accelerator pedal almpst half was (as if trying to accelerate rather swiftly) the ecu retards the timing instead of advancing it, obviously "killing" the power burst. It may now be uderstandable what causes the banging sound and misfire; the injectors stay open for a longer duration to deliver more fuel for the needed acceleration but there is no spark to ignite the now very rich mixture. I have checked the manual and the spark advance is controlled by the ecu through a number of sensors, one of which is a crank angle sensor incorporated within the distributor itself. I also found out that this sensor reads engine rpm only up to app 1990 rpm but not beyond. I came to this conclusion only recently and am now trying to investigate the possibility of replacing the sensor alone instead of the whole distributor assembly. Anyone tried this before? Am also in the process of checking the other sensors involved with the spark advance process and will keep you updated of the outcome. Ciao.
  8. Slight right hand pull

    Just a little hint. Did you check your tires? How many miles do you have on them? Sometimes a tire gone bad could cause this. I had a similar experience with my Pirellis. If you suspect this you can a make a simple tire rotation routine and recheck.
  9. Ivory8g: What I did was remove the negative terminal of the battery for app 20 minutes. Any other suggestions on how to do it better?
  10. SPD_FRK: Yes, I removed the throttle body entirely to clean it properly; actually not only once but twice. The second time actually to recheck the gasket being placed correctly. It was. After the second clean up it ran quite well but only for a couple of days, then the same problem again.
  11. Thanks for all the tips. Here below my response(s) Keith6110: Yes I did use an STP fuel injector cleaner in my last fuel tank. I alsi had the fuel filter changed app 4 months ago. Still nothing doing. The thing is at higher rpm (over 2000 rpm) the engines performs much better although with still some (but really) less hesitation. Foxbrand: very possible electric failure. Only yesterday morning the car performed much better after - sigh - another throttle body clean-up. However, when I took out later at night it was a catastrophy. SPD_FRK:
  12. I have a 1997 Galant with a 6a13 2.5 l v6 normally aspirated engine. Lately I had serious back firing problems and tried to work around it until I finally found out that it was the MAF. Changed it, together with a new set of plugs and the car ran like a dream. Only lately I started to experience a strange loss pf power but only at half throttle (at around 1500 - 2000 rpm) when the engine seems as if "choking". If I release the gas pedal it regains its "breathing" ability but if I try to accelerate again it chokes once again. Even when racing the engine while in neutral the only way to avoid this stalling is to accelerate very slowly. If the gas pedal is pressed at full throttle there is serious stalling and if I continue pressing the car backfires with a loud bang; but no smoke from the exhaust. While driving I turn around this problem by down shifting; when the rpm goes over 2000 rpm it starts to run much better but with some slight hesitation. This is very annoying especially when driving uphills. I meticulously cleaned the throttle body and the isc control valve. I am now getting somewhat smoother idle but the choking act and misfiring don't go away. Dirty injectors? But why stall when only accelerated hard? I have a scanning tool but I do not get any error codes when I scan the engine. One last thing: my car does not have o2 sensors at all, it is an export model. If someone has experienced the same problem or may have some hints would be grateful. Kitty, any ideas here?