SilverG01

Need Help choosing clutch

11 posts in this topic

I'm looking for a clutch kit that can handle around 350wtq and it is going to be a DD so I'm staying away from 6/4 puck clutches. Right now I'm between the Competition Clutch stage 3 2600lb PP w/ segmented fullface sprung ceramic disk or the South Bend SS-TZ, 2200lb PP w segmented fullface sprung kevlar disk Both rated for around 400+ Tq, also I would be using these with the OEM 3g flywheel.

Is using the oem flywheel with a 2600lb pp a problem? Also would using the 2600 pp cause any problems because of the "stress" it puts on the bearings/thrust washers?

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In my experiences I've not seen any issues with going heavy on a stock flywheel other than it keeps your revs up a little more than it would with a lightweight flywheel.

I've used the comp clutch before and it grabs hard. I've driven a couple of DSM's with the southbend clutch but they both are ok for street cars. The six puck shit is good for power and torque holding but gets touchy for daily. The four puck, yeah, shits for the birds so you are making the right decision with going with a full face clutch.

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For a DD car...whatever clutch disc you decide to go with make sure its a sprung hub and not solid. You have more "grey" area on a sprung hub in clutch engagement compared to a solid hub.

I would recommend with your power range a full face high pressure disc or MAYBE a 6 puck sprung disc. I have a 6 puck sprung disc on my gvr4 and its not that bad as I thought it would be.

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Can anyone comment on the segmented ceramic sprung disc, neverheard of anyone running it on dsm's, I'll order the South Bend if I can't find anything else

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i'm also interested with the segmented disks, I'm on the fence with buying a stage 3+ from comp clutch and a fidanza unit, although I might go with a South Bend unit, but I honestly haven't heard anything about them until recently

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Found this post by a Comp Clutch representative on a Genesis forum, I'm liking the Segmented Ceramic a little more now, sounds like the kevlar disc is too picky for me.

To clear up some of the confusion that seems to be surrounding the different kits.

5095-2300 - Stage 3 - Segmented Kevlar

5095-2600 - Stage 3 - Segmented Ceramic

Both kits are designed for specific purposes as such they both have their own set of unique characteristics.

2300

The 2300 kit is put together utilizing the same pressure plate as the rest of our performance line up. It utilizes a segmented Kevlar disc that has a moderate power handling ability but where this disc shines is in its smooth operating and engagement feel. This might sound like the perfect clutch for a lot of people but these characteristics do come at a price. Unless the flywheel is machined perfect and all surfaces are cleaned thoroughly the clutch disc will be trash before you even get out of the driveway. Now if you have gotten far enough where everything is clean and as it should be, you have a very strict break in policy to follow. Roughly 1000 miles of very modest street driving without any high torque loads, the goal is to keep heat down to a minimum as the disc is very susceptible to glazing during this time. If you have made it this far you are probably ready to do some higher tq loads and more spirited driving and the clutch will be ready to take the load. However, you need to keep in mind the even though the clutch is broken in you should be very careful as to not over heat the clutch through slipping as this will glaze it over and the clutch will not be able to come back from this state.

2600

The 2600 uses the performance pressure plate as well but instead of the Kevlar facing it utilizes a segmented ceramic friction material. The power handling of this style disc is slightly more than the comparable Kevlar faced disc due to the increased coefficient of friction of ceramic. Other areas where this disc will shine is the fact that it is not susceptible to glazing in the same way as the Kevlar, it also is a lot less sensitive to breaking in and should be ready for full load after only a couple hundred miles. Some of the negatives of this disc are that it will make some additional noise compared to Kevlar, most notably in the morning when the clutch is cold. This can come in the form of chattering or very mild squeal when coming from a dead stop starting up. This disc is also sensitive to contamination, if oils or grease make their way into the facing during installation or use the discs will be compromised. This will show itself when the clutch is heated up to the upper temperature limits. First the material will start to crumble away from the disc itself and then, if the clutch temperature is high and the clutch is engaged the disc can actually become fused with the plate requiring a full tear down to clean the fused material off both the flywheel and pressure plate.

As you can see, choosing a clutch is a balancing act of figuring out not only which clutch will hold the power the best, but also which clutch has the driving characteristics of what you want.

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Well after reading that post from the Comp Clutch representative, everyone recommending it and all the great reviews on the genesis forums for the Comp Clutch stage 3 (aka as 3.5) 2600 pp w/ segmented ceramic sprung full face disc I ordered it.

I'll post more about it when I receive it and when it gets installed in the summer ;)

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Ya..... I fucked a brand new clutch once, when I was young and stupid and thought I knew more than what I did, lol.... but we all learn by making mistakes, that was a mistake I never made again....lol

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Yeah lol the temptation to stomp on it is just unavoidable but I'll give it a nice 500 miles break in granny shifting it ;)

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