External link to this article:

http://www.galanttuners.com/kb.php?a=64

After three horrible weeks of work and almost no wrench time, the car is finally running. Hopefully this post will assist those looking to do the DOHC swap on their 7G's.

"WARNING: THIS CAN POTENTIALLY DAMAGE YOUR CAR OR PARTS OF YOUR CAR. *THE INFORMATION PROVIDED HERE MAY NOT BE COMPLETE, YOU ARE DOING THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK. *THIS IS NOT FOR THE AMATEUR MECHANIC, SIMPLE STEPS ARE SKIPPED AND IT IS ASSUMED YOU OWN THE PARTS MANUAL FOR YOUR CAR. *THIS IS FOR INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY. *"

Parts List:

Complete cylinder head 1G /2G optional.
4G63 Valve cover and gasket.
Intake Manifold to match generation of cylinder head.
1G / 2G Fuel rail.
Injectors. (Size is optional to support mods.)
Resistor pack.
Coil Pack.
Power Transistor / Igniter
Cam / Crank sensor to match generation of cylinder head.
Cam sprokets. 4G63 cams work just fine. All you have to do is advance timing by 1/2 tooth. If you feel better getting 4G64 cam thats fine also.
Knock sensor.
4G63 water return pipe.
4G63 head gasket.
4G63 head bolts.
4g64 1994 Galant GS timing belt.
2G ECU.
2G Timing belt cover.
1G upper and lower radiator hoses.
Freeze Plugs one-1/2", two-5/8" and two-11/16"

If you also decide to do the turbo set up, you will need the following:
Exhaust manifold.
Turbo.
Oil feed and return lines.
4G63 oil pan with oil return and gasket.
Intercooler piping.
BOV.
Boost control.
Intake to support turbo type.
MAF Translator / GM Maf Optional.
Etc.

Other:
Vacumm Hoses.
Electrical wire / Tape.
Silicone High Temp. Optional

I did my swap with the motor in the vehicle. If you have already removed the motor from the vehicle, you can disregard this first paragraph.

Start by safely jacking the vehicle and placing jackstands under the proper sections of vehicle. (Refer to owners manual for instructions.) Remove the drivers side wheel to expose the front of the engine. Once the tire is removed place support under the motor so you can remove the motor mount on the timing belt side. Once this mount has been removed, proceed and remove the drive belts, harmonic balancer, A/C belt tensioner and timing belt cover. Once the timing belt is exposed, I would suggest rotating the crank and setting all timing marks to match TDC. (This is not exactly required but suggested.)

From here you can proceed to remove the timing belt, valve cover and continue the process of removing the SOHC cylinder head. Once you have removed the SOHC cylinder head you will have to clean it and measure to make sure there are no major imperfections on the deck of the block. Resurfacing is suggested but left to your discretion. Once you are sure the block is ok, you have to insert the freeze plugs to seal oil passages that the 4G63 cylinder head will not use. See figure below.

Two of them didn't quite fit tight enough so I just used a hammer to flatten the plug making it a bit wider. Once I plugged the guides, I used silicone around them just to be sure nothing got in and the plugs do not move.


Next step is your knock sensor. "I suggest you do this before installing the head and intake manifold as it will be easier and you will have a lot of space." Behind cylinder number two you will find a threaded hole on the upper section of the cylinder. This is where you want to locate the knock sensor. At this time you can also run a wire through the fire wall to connect to the ECU. The wire going to the ECU will be either white or red on the sensor. The other wire on the sensor will be grounded. Be sure not to over thighten the sensor!

Once you have completed the knock sensor intsall, go ahead and remove the stock 4G64 water pipe. Once you have installed the new o-ring washer on the 4G63 water pipe, go ahead and mount in onto the motor and connect all water hoses and bolt down. If you're installing a Mitsubishi water cooled turbo and are infact cooling, you will also want to install the water lines at this time.
NOTE: Referance picture only. This is not an actual picture of my swap.


So you are almost ready to install the DOHC head. If you are not removing the balance shaft, install the new balance shaft belt at this time. Also, if you are installing a 1G cylinder head, go ahead and remove the stock 7G crank sensor from the crank at this time. Once the new belt is installed and the sensor removed, rotate the crank to place piston number one to TDC and all timing marks on the block to their correct positions. At this time you can also install the new idler pulley and tensioner pulley or you can do it later when you install the timing belt.

With the bottom end ready go ahead and lay down the new head gasket. CHECK AND MAKE SURE THE TIMING MARKS ON THE CAM SPROKETS ARE ALIGNED TO MATCH TDC. Note: The cam sprokets will be a little off before you install the belt but you want to make sure that the correct valves are closed and or open. Once you have the cylinder head ready go ahead and place in its location. At this time you can drop in the head bolts and prepare for the tightening process. "I WILL EXPLAIN THE TIGHTENING PROCESS STEP BY STEP. THIS IS VERY EASY BUT YOU NEED TO MAKE SURE YOU DO IT RIGHT. IF YOU ARE NOT SURE REFER TO YOUR REPAIR MANUAL.

If you have the chart for the 4G64 it is ok its the same.


Cylinder head bolt torque spec. (Ft-lbs)
Step 1. Tighten all bolts to 58lbs (follow tightening chart order)
Step 2. Loosen Completely
Step 3. Tighten to 15lbs
Step 4. Tighten 1/4-turn
Step 5. Tighten 1/4-turn futher (DO NOT SKIP STEP 4 AS YOU HAVE TO DO EACH STEP IN TIGHTENING CHART ORDER.)



Once you have the cylinder head secure, move on to the timing belt installation. If you are using 4G63 cam sprokets, you will want to mark them now. There are many ways of doing this. You can mark them with paint, marker, crayon what ever you want. I marked mine with a small grinding tip, just enough to recognize the mark and it would not wipe off.


Below you will see 4G64 DOHC cam sprokets layed over 4G63 sprokets and you will see the differance in timing marks.

Exhaust


Intake


So your cam sprokets are now marked and you are ready to install your timing belt. Start by placing the belt over the exhaust sproket and placing two paper clips or zip ties to hold the belt on there. Once the belt is secured on the exhaust sproket, use a 17mm wrench to slightly rotate the exhaust cam and align with the intake cam. You may want to have a second person assist. When you have the two cams aligned, place the belt over the intake cam and secure with clips or zip ties also. (DO NOT CRIMP THE BELT IN ANY WAY TO AVOID DAMAGE.)Have your helper hold the two cams with two 17mm wrenches so they dont move them when you install the belt on the bottom end. Once you have the belt installed in the bottom proceed to tighten. Refer to repair manual for more instructions. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN AND REMOVE THE CLIPS OR ZIP TIES WHEN COMPLETE!
Once the belt is installed assuming the spark plugs are off, rotate the crank clockwise two times then counter clockwise and make sure the timing marks align.
(Do not install the timing cover at this time. I suggest you complete the installation of everything else in order to start the car to make sure timing and all other component in there are ok.)

Assumning you have installed the intake manifold, TB, exhaust manifold (turbo), radiator hoses etc. At this point will move on.

Now the wonderfull world of wiring.

At this time you might as well install and wire you injectors. Each injector plug on the 7G has a black and red wire. This wire will be connected to the resistor pack. The resistor pack will have four wires in either red or white which you will connect the blk/red lead. the fifth wire will be you sourse. 12vlt.


Now you can move on to the cam/crank sensor. If you are using a 1G cam/cranks sensor wiring will be as follows: This sensor has four pins which are cam signal (white), crank signal (yellow), positive (red) and negative (black). From the crank sensor plug on the 7G harness, extend the red as+ the black as- and the blue as crank signal. The white wire you will connect to the brown and green wire on the 5 pin plug the was connected the the cam sensor on the SOHC distributor. You now have you cam/crank sensor wired.


For complete and more in detail wiring refer to:
kb.php?a=63
http://www.magnusmotorsports.com/tech/1gina2g.pdf

Once you have installed the new ECU, changed the oil and new coolant, let her rip. Make sure everything is tight and you have no leaks. Also, there are some steps that I have skipped, therefore you may have to refer to repair manual of feel free to PM me.

***************Once again this is for informational purposes, therefore I nor this website(http://www.galanttuners.com) will be held accountable for any damage to your vehicle or yourself.**************

Small clip of the close to finished product!


Resources:
http://www.4g64.com/users/raycer97/1g_parts.htm
http://www.extremeevolutions.com/4G64_buildup.htm
http://projectzerog.com/sirius_engines.shtml
http://www.extremeevolutions.com/CASwiring2.gif
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/article ... olors.html