External link to this article:

http://www.galanttuners.com/kb.php?a=68

Ok, i was thinking the other day, wouldn't be useful for somebody that is just begining to tune there Galant to have information on the various specifications of parts, I know that many of you expereinced guys will not entirely like this article, but the purpose of this is to help us new guys, yes I said yes, what I and partly my dad have done to what is now my Galant might be called a Toyko tune up (take a s**t box put a giant exhaust pipe and an intake, my exhaust is rather conservidive), though like I'm sure all of you will be offended by having your car called a ricer, all 8g Galants (minus those that are vr-4's that were shipped here semi legally) are made in Normal, Illinios.
I have included all info I know of, I will update when I get more info
-->engine
-firing order: 1-2-3-4-5-6, lovely isn't it?
-compression ratio: 9.0:1 (1999 only), 8.9:1 (2000-2002), 9.2:1 (2003 only), I got this info out of car mantaince manuals at my local library, I am not entirely sure if the 2003 comrpression ratio is accurate
-redline: 6200 rpm, estimated
-automatic transmission upshift at full throttle: 6000 rpm, however I have seen my trans upshift past the redline at 6500 rpm drag racing on my first run
-rev limiter: 6500, if you have uprated exhaust and do the fake manuel shift thing I do with the gear select and let off the gas when you shift, the resulting backfire when you shift at the redline, you will set off car alarms
-power: 195 hp @5500 (1999), 185@5500 (2000-2002), 205@5500 (2003 only), once again, I am not sure if this is entirely accurate
-torque: 210 lb/ft @4500
-bore 91.1 mm (3.59 in)x stroke 76 mm (3.0 in), 2972cc, for the amount of bottom end punch that all of us v6 guys have, you would think that the stroke would be a bit longer and because of the shorter stroke you would think that you could rev a bit higher
-valvetrain, SOHC
-throttle body size, 62 mm
>- note: force induction
--stock connecting rod max boost pressure before rapid failure: >10 psi, as one of the guys at my local auto parts stores put it "if you run over 10 psi, you will throw a rod in under a week"
--stock piston max boost pressure before rapid failure: >7 psi
-->transmission
>-note, this has to do with the stock automatic
-fuzzy logic, the transmissions adapts to how you drive, if you go drag racing, on the first run the trans will shift after the redline, I guess there is an emergency power protical in the computer that controls it, after 2 or 3 runs on the strip, your transmission will start to shift really, really fast, fast enough that I saw the outer edge of a bluish flame in my rear veiw on the second run on the one-two shift
-torque converter stall: 1100 rpm
-gears, max speed/max speed the trans will down shift to
1st, 45, 25
2nd, 80, 80
3rd, 125 (gov limited),--
4th, 125 (gov limited),--
>-note, for drag racing, if you have a short ram air intake or what ever the bell my Weapon R Secret Weapon intake is, remove your left head light, (but you will have to take off your grill) this will give a direct ram air effect into your intake, for runs in the morning or night (whenever it is the coolest), you can theoredically get over 90 mph, but remember, the run matters only where the track is dark, this is where the so called traqbite/sticky stuff is, for the late morning/afternoon runs, most of the time for people running just aftermarket intake and exhaust, you need only first and second, click the gear select into '2', if you go over the redline a little, that is fine, I have actually beaten v8 Camaros and v6 Mustangs off the line, through the 200 foot and was still hanging on through the 1/8 mile even with my horrendisly miscalculated starts, just go on the second to last yellow, I went on the last yellow and ended up with .3 to .6 r/t's
>-note, forced induction, the max power you can put through the stock automatic transmission before it breaks is 250 kw which come out to about 335 hp, so if you are like me and are sticking with the slick box (not really a slush box), you should get as much as you can cryo treated
-->suspension
-stock front sway bar diameter: roughly .75 inches
-stock rear sway bar diameter: roughly the same as the front
>-note, if yours car rolls a lot in turns and there is a noticable side to side swinging squeek (I don't know how else to desribe it) on one side, that is a dead sway bar link swinging side to side, I actually freaked out once because I thought my engine was knocking when I had a dead sway bar link and it hitting the ball joint it used to be attached to from the vibrations from the engine, luckily, it got replaced the next day, I also have to say this, you just can't change a front sway bar link, you just can't, a good idea is go to an NTB or another good corperate run shop and have them change it for you and have them do the other side as well

more to be added later, this is all I know now