The Lowered V6 Vibration Fix

[SPD_FRK]

Many of the V6 folks who have installed a set of lowering springs, or coilovers have found themselves battling the common vibration issue. This is caused from the change in the vehicle ride height to a point that it will "squish" the bearings inside of the axle shafts. Basically this binding of the axel shafts causes the vibration and is quite irritating to deal with. Most people do not know what is causing the issue, or believe the only fix is correctly sized axles. The current fix for this annoying issue is simple, and best of all cheap...very cheap.

You need to head to your local hardware store, Home Depot, or Lowes in search of a washer that is 1/8" thick. I cannot think of the diameter size for the axle off my head right now, I will get that posted come Monday. The washer is to be placed around the axle shaft behind the hub on both driver and passenger side. This will give an 1/8" shim to prevent the binding issue, and ultimately eliminate the vibration problem from occuring.


Shaft dia is 28mm (1 1/8"), the threaded section where the axle nut goes on is 21mm (7/8"). I am not for sure yet if we need the smaller or larger diameter, just know that it needs to be 1/8" thick

[Spdracr]

if you can get some pics that would help alot, good work nonetheless

[SPD_FRK]

I'll have pics up once I get the washers and my car on stands.

[mko]

I had the same issue when I first lowered my car. I changed both axles and it was fine.

The way i explain it is that when not lowered the CV joint has an angle and it wears off under that angle. When car is lowered the angle changes and the joint goes over worn off part and then over not worn off part when spinning, creating a wobbling.

[01galant01]

Hey its not only the v6 folks .I had this very same issue not too long ago and had the raise the car up. If this fix really works, I will slam the g next summer

[4g63lover]

my car has been lowered on teins for a few years and never felt a wobble. I just took the axles out for the swap and they dont look bad at all. Maybe it's cuz the Teins dont drop as much as the Megans or the D2's do.

[SPD_FRK]

This vibration fix is really only applying to the V6 platform, but would likely work on the 4cyl platform too, it's just not something comonly heard of though as Jigz pointed out above me. The issue is due to the drive axle lengths, when you drop the front end down 2" from stock ride height it puts the CV joints at harsh angles and will bind the free movement of the axle or the bearings within the axel. This is not something that will be fixed with new axles because they are the same length and specs. In order to buy new axles to resolve the issue (and costing a few hundred dollars), the axles have to be cut down and sized by a driveline shop.

By placing the shim between the axle and the hub it acts as enough shim space to prevent the harsh binding on the CV joints, which causes the heavy wear and eventually destroys the axles. Even with new axles, and the vehicle lowered enough to cause this binding will destroy them just as quickly. This shim has been proven to work on some very highly known 8th Gen Galants, and I got the information from a highly knowledgable Galant owner (boostzealot). Not many people are aware of this fix even, so that is why I have pulled the information together and put up here. Whether you believe it to work or not is fine, but before spending a handful of cash on new axles try this fix. If you just buy new axles and don't do the shim and have a vibration issue...start saving more money for axles again.

[beam514]

get some pics up when you can. For some reason I am having a hard time visualizing this; though I'm not really an expert on axle construction

[SPD_FRK]

get some pics up when you can. For some reason I am having a hard time visualizing this; though I'm not really an expert on axle construction

I will hopefully be able to get some pictures up on Monday night or sometime during the week. If it helps any, remember when I took the axles out of the transmission, but you took off the axle nut and removed the entirre assembly? Basically when you put the axle back in there the washer has to go on that end of the axle before you pass it through the hub.

[beam514]

and that leaves enough room for the cotter pin? space seems tight as it is. I guess if BJ did it though, then it must be working

[SPD_FRK]

Yea, the 1/8" thick washer still leaves room for the cotter pin to go in. BJ tried a few different thicknesses of washers and the 1/8" was the best one to use that resolved the binding and still allowed the cotter pin to fit. Anything thicker will prevent the cotter pin from going on. Both BJ and TJ were running this method with no issues at all so we know it to be a working and easy solution to the problem.

[bsilver23]

i am going to give this a try when i get a chance

[Frankv]

Would the axle shaft measure 3/4" in diameter?

[SPD_FRK]

I am unsure what the shaft diameter is yet. I haven't pulled my car in yet to get the information/pictures but should have some stuff posted tomorrow night after I get home from working on it.

[Frankv]

Thanks alot bro! So, to be exact, you first remove the wheel, caliper, and rotor leaving only the hub. Remove the dust cap, cotter pin, washer, nut, taking the hub out w/ bearing. You then insert the washer and reassemble, right? Or does the hub have some bolts needing removal. Never really took a good look when i installed my slotted rotors.

[beam514]

No essentially you just take off the wheel, remove the cotter pin, remove the nut hold in the axle, bang out the axle, put washer on, then reinsert.. I think

but to do that you need to detach the whole assembly from the lower control arm I think

[Frankv]

Lol...thanks beam!We'll see what's up ha ha

[4g63lover]

This is how I took my axles out

-remove the cotter pin and axle nut from the hub
-remove caliper assembly from knuckle and ziptie caliper onto the strut.
-unbolt the lower mount of the strut from the knuckle
-unbolt the tierod from the knuckle
-swing the control arm down
-swivel the knuckle to get the axles out

I hate messing with the ball joint and taking it off will most likely damage it than not, so thats why I take the axles out that way. Stewi and qnzmostwanted does it the same way I do it as well.

[beam514]

hmm I'll have to try it that way when I do the 5 spd swap. I tried removing the ball joint and it just didn't work. Luckily my axles are shitty and they just kinda magically came out cause the CV boots are torn to shit LMAO

I need new axles.. cough

[Frankv]

Awesome!Thank you fellas! Finally got my hands on some megans so im eager to start w/the install asap and knowing its worked on reputable members rides. I'll be straight once im finished. The h&rs weren't cutting it for me ha ha. I'll prolly sell them on tgc or craigers.

[SleekGTZ]

This is great info. I would love to see some pics soon and try it out.

[SPD_FRK]

-remove the cotter pin and axle nut from the hub
-remove caliper assembly from knuckle and ziptie caliper onto the strut.
-unbolt the lower mount of the strut from the knuckle
-unbolt the tierod from the knuckle
-swing the control arm down
-swivel the knuckle to get the axles out

This is the method I strongly suggest. Ivory8g showed me this way when we did his clutch install which made it easy, and I did the same procedure when I took my engine and trans out (took me only about an hour to do even).

[SPD_FRK]

Its slow today so I just ran out and measured the shaft with a micrometer. Measurements are posted now in first posting

[Frankv]

Took apart my cv axle today and tried the 1" washer...close, but no cigar. Wasn't butting up against the spindle completely.I'd have to slightly dremel the inner diameter to have it sit flush. The outer seemed to be a bit too big. Has anyone found a washer coming close to the outer diameter of the spindle? Don't mind the trimming, but if i can avoid it, great!

[beam514]

since my axles are out of the car.. I might just go to home depot or something and bring my axle LOL. but probably don't have time for that

[Frankv]

Okay guys, to fill all you in. The washer has proven to work gr8 in alleviating the vibration issues. 8g31's (rigo) g was the test subject ha ha The installation process took us about 2 1/2 hours to complete. The washers were purchased @ LOWE'S Item# 135668 $1.15 for a 2-pack! They are 3/4" hardened steel. The O.D. was a perfect fit and I.D. was easily honed out to 1 1/8" using a Dremel w/ a 1/2" drum sander. I used a 1 1/8" circle stencil for the outline on the washer. Once the rough cut was done and test fitted on the axle. I shaved a hair off more and it sat flush against the spindle. Reassembled everything using new cotter pins, since the old ones look like twigs and "voila". Thanks to Matt and everyone who helped on this thread Now i can proceed dropping my g on megans Hope this information helps.

[SPD_FRK]

OK, I took an axle to my nearest Home Depot and Lowes after work tonight in search of a washer and part#. Unfortunately I was unable to find an appropriate sized washer, but I have inquired with Fastenal for assistance. They have numerous washers on their catalog, but none listed in the size specs we need.

For those of you who are searching, or wondering the size information it is as follows;
2.125" (2 1/8") Outside Diameter, Anything larger will likely not fit into the back of the hub. This it the ideal size to fit on the axles "face" section properly
1.125" (1 1/8") Inside Diameter. This is a perfect fit if the washer is sized exactly (some may need light sanding but not much). Anything larger will fit loosely
.125" (1/8") Thickness, nothing thicker according to Bj as it will not allow the cotter pin to fit once you reassemble. Thiner will not give the proper spacing needed.

Hopefully I will hear back from Fastenal in the next day or so and they could likely direct me to something they carry, or somebody who may. Pricing so far for these on Fastenal's site for th esize ranges anywhere from $0.50-$2.00 per washer, heck of a cheap fix and easy to do as mentioned

[Frankv]

Any updates from members using the method I tried???

[Jeffylou87]

When I lowered my car.. Same thing happened except it ended up being my inner tie rods..

[QnzMostWanted]

i did this about 2 years ago, cept i dremeled out a stock axle washer lol